Men's Hair and Scalp Basics Part 1: Scalp Care and the Microbiome

In the 2010s, men’s grooming had its renaissance. Safety razor ads were everywhere, “manscaping” became a buzzword, and personal grooming kits popped up in every mall. Your brother was being offered beard oil and beard wax by the well-coiffed kiosk guys. Even my dad, at one point, owned a surprisingly fresh tub of light-blue-tinted facial moisturizer.

There have always been men chasing a more polished look, and as civilization evolves, so do the tools and options for men’s self-care. I’m clocking in as a hair and scalp specialist (and hair loss expert) to share my own knowledge and know-how. This guide will walk you through the why behind the routine, so you can build one that works best for you.

I’m always honest when a guy sits in my chair. I’m the trichologist–cosmetologist who will control your crazy eyebrows and make your ear hairs disappear (what ear hairs?).

Sometimes hair woes really do have simple solutions. I’ve seen cases turn around just from adding a bit more vigorous scrubbing to a wash routine. There’s so much to cover when it comes to hair and scalp, I created this straightforward guide to cover the situations most men encounter.

When in doubt? Everyone’s scalp has its own microbiome. Find yourself a reputable, knowledgeable trichologist to guide you. You might start this article a barbershop guy, but don’t be surprised if you end up a salon guy by the time we’re done here.

If you work outdoors, play golf or volleyball, or hit the races on weekends, summer sweat can easily congest the lower back of your scalp and neck. This can turn into scalp acne—red, sore, and inflamed. It can happen whether or not you wear hats.

A simple fix: keep a pack of baby wipes handy and wipe the back of your neck a few times a day to remove sweat and prevent buildup.

Plenty of people need to know how to wash their hair better. If your hair is dirty, sweaty, or full of debris, use the first shampoo to loosen buildup and the second shampoo to rinse it away. This is especially helpful if your scalp feels smelly or oily, you’ve switched to natural or bar shampoo, or you don’t wash daily.

Shampoo frequency depends on hair texture and scalp oiliness. When treating scalp conditions or hair loss, you may be advised to cleanse more often. Give any new shampoo or wash schedule at least a month before deciding if it’s right for your scalp microbiome. A healthy scalp shouldn’t have visible debris; “dandruff” is a clue something’s off. If I see flakes or dryness, my first question is whether you’re conditioning after shampooing.

If you’re using a 2-in-1, you’re not truly cleaning or conditioning your hair. That formula is a chemistry disaster, setting your scalp up for a graveyard of good hair dreams. The flakes from dandruff mix with oils and need proper cleansing—not a hybrid product that does neither job well.

Shampoo and conditioner should work like a team, not fight each other on your head. Keep them separate.

Shampoo choice gets tricky with dandruff. Some formulas—like certain Suave varieties—contain sodium laureth sulfate, an effective cleanser BUT can also be drying or irritating. Their 2-in-1 dandruff formula has even raised Environmental Working Group flags for potential allergy and immunotoxicity concerns.

Tea tree shampoos can help some dandruff types but may worsen psoriasis. For scalp psoriasis, partner with a dermatologist for medical treatments, and on the cosmetic side, stick to very gentle shampoos like Natulique Fragrance Free Wash or XTC Pure Shampoo. This prevents further irritation while you treat the underlying condition.

Please use shampoo on your scalp. Water alone won’t effectively cleanse oils, product residue, and debris—especially if you’re regrowing delicate new hairs or using topical treatments.

DHT (a byproduct of testosterone) can increase scalp oiliness by stimulating sebaceous glands. That extra oil feeds Demodex mites, which naturally live in hair follicles. In normal numbers they’re helpful cleanup crew, but excess oil can lead to overgrowth.

Washing with soap and gentle friction keeps their numbers balanced. And don’t forget—wash your hats and pillowcases weekly. Oils, sweat, and microbes build up there, too, and can undo all your scalp-cleansing efforts. If you skip facial washing, you might also notice extra flakes on your eyelashes or brows—another sign you’re giving these mites more food than they need.

If your scalp is truly dry, you might be skipping conditioner or using a harsh shampoo. A quality conditioner nourishes the scalp, protects the acid mantle, and supports a balanced microbiome. Disrupting that barrier can lead to itchiness, visible flakes, and even scratches or scabs you don’t remember making. Conditioner resets scalp pH, nourishes hair, and protects both from environmental stressors.

Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp, and the foundation of that is simple: keep it clean, keep it balanced, and keep the environment around it—like your hats and pillowcases—just as fresh. Once your scalp microbiome is in good shape, the next layer is looking at what’s happening inside the body. In Part 2 of Men’s Hair & Scalp Basics, we’ll dive into the health factors that impact hair growth, from nutrition and autoimmune conditions to environmental exposures you might not have considered. Because great hair isn’t just about what you put on your head—it’s also about what’s going on in the rest of you.

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